Delectable kebabs, scented biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has forever been a food lovers' paradise, with inhabitants and visitors equally swearing by its remarkable cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, UNESCO designated it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – adding it to a select list of international urban centers and kindling hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this title, it becomes part of a international community of cities urban centers across over 100 countries focused on promoting "innovation as a catalyst of sustainable urban development".
The accolade "stands as proof of its deep-rooted gastronomic legacy and lively food ecosystem," as stated by a representative from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to earn a spot in this prestigious list of 70 global destinations worldwide.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The recognition for this time-honored city arrives as little surprise to its residents or dedicated food lovers. Many share the sentiment that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, bustling, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is now in the spotlight for what has always defined its essence: an unparalleled love for food.
"'What's for dinner, how will it be cooked' is a constant dialogue from waking up until night in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are often judged by the excellence of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of the Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were created, evolved, and raised to extraordinary levels in their opulent kitchens.
These royal kitchens were hubs of food experimentation, blending Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were developed. The story goes that the mutton galouti was created to feed an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks minced the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover securely closed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
In addition to the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just highlights fresh harvests but also offers the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Nearly on countless corners, there are little shops and kiosks – lesser-known treasures that are wildly loved by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, huge crowds start assembling from the crack of dawn at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in clay glasses, along with fluffy buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can visit a no-frills joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also boasts remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert savored in the winter. The process of making it is intricate and involved. The cook whisks the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing airy feel.
On crisp mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of but express concern that their children are unwilling to master the craft.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's immense food legacy puts it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – influenced by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is anticipated, will inspire more people worldwide to discover these narratives and experience the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
